My 30D consistantly (almost 1001001121220f the moment) underexposes my pictures. It does it in Av, Tv and still when I manually reveal it in M (when I do not falsify the vulnerability. Is there a scene someplace that I am not seeing that will permit me adapt the camera so that the exposures are accurate? Does camera demand to be serviced? Is it not a system trouble and potential a lens trouble (lens is Sigma f/2. 8 70-200)? Am I a moron who just cannot number away his camera? If I kill in M, I can falsify it. But, presently I am shooing basketball in Tv style because I am not fast enough to kill in M payable to the varing amounts of light in the gymnasium.

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Check you setting for Ev - exposure compensation.. make sure it isn't set to + 2.0 or something.. should be 0. Also, you might try to reset all your settings - should be a default that might solve your problesm if you somehow setup in camera processing options.. Good Luck!

I pretty much only shoot in Manual...even in varying situations like the park where it can go from shade to sun quickly w/running toddlers.

Here are some things I'll try to brainstorm about (please note I am sooooo an amateur and don't read manuals) ok, warning over hahaha

--Try to shoot in RAW mode. You can change the exposure easier and it's less harsh to the over pix than if you were to try to lighten the photo. Occassionaly I will process the RAW image twice if there are some really hot spots that the 'brightness' slider doesn't solve. I will process one JPG focusing on the bright spot and then process another JPG making sure that everything else is as bright as I would like it. If I use this photo, I can place them one on top of the other and, for examples sake, the 'over-exposed' photo is on top....I will erase on the brightest brightest spot w/a soft eraser (playing around w/opacity too) so that that the darker version of the bright spot comes out underneath. Hope that makes sense.

--When I first got my XT in July I used AV and the exposure did not turn out as well as when I did it totally manually in M mode. I don't know why...it's just what I noticed.

--maybe I should've also included this in my long paragraph about RAW lol....but RAW also helps b/c you can adjust the WHITE BALANCE after the fact. Most people use AWB. A Few do CWB (custom white balance where they will actually shoot a grey/white card and tell the camera to customize the WB according to the situation.) There are also some default WB situations you can choose on your camera....daylight, Indoor lighting (tungsten/flourescent), shady, cloudy, etc. And the indoor gym lighting...well...you can play around w/one of the indoor lighting defaults and see if they turn out better. I tried CWB for a while, but just imagine the looks I get at the park - I already get looks b/c I'm the only one w/a dSLR...or a camera for that matter. And it's more trouble than it's worth to keep resetting the WB in the shade...toddler runs arouns....resetting it for the sun, etc, etc, repeat, repeat lol. So....I shoot in AWB and RAW and just adjust the WB later...and it makes a BIG difference.

--Sometimes I notice that the camera will try to adjust to the 'brightest' spot in it's field. I tend to manually choose my focus points most of the time and sometimes that helps.....so maybe it reads the light according to where the focus is (where that little red light blinks in the view finder). Again, I'm not really sure about what I just said above ahahaha...just throwing thoughts out there.

If I think of anything else I'll post again.

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good advice..especially the RAW stuff.. if you have RAW, I would recommend shooting in that mode 80% of the time.. 20% reserved for those family moments when you just want to get the photos out on the web or print and don't have the time to convert.. 80% for when you really want the best out of your photos.